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Peak Korzhenevskaya

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Peak Korzhenevskaya (Tajikistan)

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Peak Korzhenevskaya is a prominent peak in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. Discovered in 1937 by a Soviet expedition, it was named after a female geographer. At 7,105 meters, it is the third highest mountain in Tajikistan and the 40th highest in the world. The peak is part of the Academy of Sciences Range. First ascent was in 1953 by a Russian team. The mountain is less known than nearby Peak Communism (Ismoil Somoni). The climb is technically difficult with steep ice and rock faces. The area features huge glaciers, including the Fedchenko Glacier. Climate is extreme with temperatures down to -50°C. The region is sparsely populated; nearest city, Khorog, is 100 km away. The peak is a destination for experienced mountaineers. Climbing season is July, August.

📋 Practical info

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Getting there
This exceptionally remote mountain is typically accessed via highly organized mountaineering expeditions starting from base camps in the Pamir region. Reach the base camp usually via helicopter flights or incredibly arduous treks from the nearest settlements.
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Best season
The safest climbing window is strictly limited to the short summer months of July and August when the extreme weather is marginally more stable. High-altitude storms remain a constant, completely unpredictable, and deadly threat.
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Terrain & paths
Expect extreme high-altitude alpine terrain featuring severe glaciation, highly unpredictable deep crevasses, and highly technical ice and snow climbing sections. This highly demanding environment requires absolute peak physical conditioning.
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What to bring
Comprehensive high-altitude expedition gear is entirely mandatory, including specialized cold-weather down suits, heavy-duty crampons, ice axes, fixed ropes, and highly reliable emergency satellite communication devices for extreme isolation.
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Parking
Conventional parking infrastructure is completely non-existent anywhere near this extremely remote location. All transportation and complex logistics are managed entirely through specialized expedition operators starting from major staging cities.
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Safety
Severe life-threatening risks include extreme altitude sickness, huge unpredictable avalanches, and sudden severe weather shifts. Appropriate and gradual acclimatization schedules are absolutely critical for basic survival in this incredibly thin atmosphere.
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Time needed
A complete, fully realized expedition to safely acclimatize, successfully establish high camps, reach the demanding summit, and safely descend typically takes anywhere between three to five full weeks depending heavily on crucial weather windows.

Geography

Coordinates
39.05000, 72.00000

Facts

  • Height: 7,105 m
  • Discovered: 1937
  • First ascent: 1953
  • Location: Academy of Sciences Range
  • Glacier area in region: 700 km²
  • Average summit temperature: -30 °C

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Sights in the town Peak Korzhenevskaya (1)

Ozodi Peak🌿 nature

A prominent, glaciated summit in the Pamir Mountains reaching over 7,100 metres.

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Frequently asked questions

Is the mountain accessible to normal tourists?
No, this is a high-alpine peak for experienced mountaineers.
What physical fitness is needed?
Excellent fitness and experience in climbing at high altitude are absolutely necessary.
Are there rescue services?
Rescue services at this altitude are very limited; you are on your own.
Which season is ideal for climbing?
The period from July to mid-August features the best weather window.
Must one have insurance?
Yes, special mountaineering insurance covering rescue flights is mandatory.
Peak Korzhenevskaya: where is it located?
Peak Korzhenevskaya is located in Tajikistan.
Peak Korzhenevskaya: why is it worth visiting?
Peak Korzhenevskaya is a prominent peak in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan.
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