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Piz Morteratsch

Plizio editorial teamUpdated: Jun 2026Data Sources

peak

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Piz Morteratsch is a significant peak in the Bernina Range of the Upper Engadine, reaching an elevation of 3,751 meters. It is situated between the Morteratsch Glacier to the east and the Tschierva Glacier to the west, making it a central point in the high mountains of Graubünden. Unlike the technically more demanding Piz Bernina, Piz Morteratsch is regarded as a classic viewpoint peak, typically ascended via the North Ridge (Spallagrat). The first recorded ascent occurred in 1858 by climber C. Brügger and guide P. Jenni. The mountain provides one of the finest views of the famous Biancograt route on Piz Bernina. The region has been heavily impacted by glacial retreat, which has altered access routes and climbing conditions over the past few decades. The Tschierva Hut (Chamanna da Tschierva) serves as a vital base for the ascent. For alpinists, the mountain's grandiose landscape of ice and rock makes it an indispensable destination in Eastern Switzerland.

Location: Switzerland
Top sights: Munt Pers · Piz Morteratsch · Piz Tschierva
Nearby: Pontresina (9 km)

Best time to visit & climate

The most pleasant time to visit is Jun–Aug.

	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Avg °C	-10	-10	-6	0	5	9	11	11	7	2	-3	-9
Rain mm	55	47	61	81	120	129	129	145	99	99	102	65

📋 Practical info

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Getting there

The mountain is usually reached from the Morteratsch station of the Rhaetian Railway via the Boval Hut. The path has spectacular views of the famous Morteratsch Glacier in Graubünden.

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Best season

High-altitude tours mostly take place from July to September when glacier conditions are stable. The area is also very attractive for ski tourers in late winter due to the impressive scenery.

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Terrain & paths

The terrain is high alpine and leads across moraines, boulders, and the vast expanses of the glacier. Sure-footedness in steep, sometimes loose ground is necessary for this summit.

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What to bring

Full glacier equipment including harness, crampons, and ice axe is mandatory for the ascent. Functional high-mountain clothing protects against the often cold winds encountered on the glacier.

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Parking

Large parking lots are available at the Morteratsch railway station, but they are often subject to fees. Arriving by train is highly recommended due to the direct connection to the hiking trail.

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Safety

Crevasse danger on the glacier requires roping up and sound knowledge of alpine hazards. One should time the tour so that the glacier is exited before the midday heat softens the snow.

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Time needed

The ascent is usually spread over two days with an overnight stay at the Boval Hut. From the hut, it typically takes between 6 and 8 hours to reach the summit and return.