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Mount Ushba
Mount Ushba is one of the most distinctive and technically demanding peaks in the Greater Caucasus, often referred to as the Matterhorn of the Caucasus due to its steep, spire-like granite walls. Located in the Svaneti region, the mountain is famous for its prominent double summit, with the South Peak at 4,710 meters being slightly taller than the North Peak at 4,690 meters. Despite being lower in elevation than the nearby 5,000-meter giants, Ushba is regarded by mountaineers as one of the most difficult climbs in the world because of its extreme verticality and unpredictable weather. The North Peak was first summited in 1888 by John Garford Cockin, while the more challenging South Peak was not conquered until 1903 by a German-Austrian-Swiss expedition. Geologically, the mountain is composed of hard granite formations that give it its characteristic, almost unnaturally steep silhouette that towers over the surrounding landscape. In local Svan culture, Ushba holds a mystical status, featuring in numerous legends about mountain spirits and legendary hunters. The view of the mountain from the nearby town of Mestia provides one of Georgia's most iconic and panoramic natural panoramas.
- Location: Georgia
- Top sights: Schurovskoy · Southern Ushba · North Ushba
- Nearby: Lentekhi (28 km)
Best time to visit & climate
The most pleasant time to visit is Jun–Aug.
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Avg °C | -10 | -9 | -6 | -1 | 6 | 10 | 13 | 14 | 9 | 4 | -3 | -8 |
| Rain mm | 78 | 65 | 94 | 68 | 78 | 80 | 67 | 61 | 88 | 97 | 93 | 80 |
📋 Practical info
Geography
Facts
- Ushba is famous for its double summit: the South Peak (4,710m) and the North Peak (4,690m).
- It is often called the Matterhorn of the Caucasus due to its steep, iconic shape.
- The North Peak was first summited in 1888 by the climber John Garford Cockin.
- The more difficult South Peak was not successfully climbed until 1903.
- The mountain is located in the Svaneti region, famous for its medieval watchtowers.
- Ushba's granite walls are among the steepest and most demanding for climbers globally.
Explore nearby
Notable places around
Route planner — Car & Motorhome
Where do you start? We build the route here, with stops and country notes along the way.
© OpenStreetMap contributors · OpenRouteService
Sights in the town Mount Ushba (3)
Sights nearby
Frequently asked questions
Why is Ushba called the "Queen of the Caucasus"?
How difficult is the climb?
From where can you see Ushba best?
Does it have two peaks?
When is the weather most stable?
Mount Ushba: where is it located?
Mount Ushba: what is there to see?
Mount Ushba: when is the best time to visit?
Mount Ushba: why is it worth visiting?


















