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Peak Ibn Sina
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Peak Ibn Sina, widely known by its former name Lenin Peak, is a prominent mountain in Central Asia, rising to 7,134 meters. It is situated on the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan in the Trans-Alay Range. The peak was discovered in 1871 by the Russian explorer Alexei Fedchenko, who initially named it Kaufmann Peak. It was renamed in honor of Vladimir Lenin in 1928, and in 2006, Tajikistan officially renamed its side of the mountain after the famous Persian polymath Avicenna (Ibn Sina). The first ascent was achieved in 1928 by a German-Soviet expedition. It is often considered one of the most accessible 7,000-meter peaks in the world due to its non-technical climbing routes, making it a popular target for high-altitude climbers. However, the mountain remains hazardous due to extreme weather and avalanche risks, most notably in 1990 when a tragic avalanche destroyed a high-altitude camp.
- Location: Tajikistan
- Top sights: pik Dzerzhinskogo · Lenin Peak · pik Marshala Zhukova
- Nearby: Sarez Lake (46 km)
Best time to visit & climate
The most pleasant time to visit is Jun–Aug.
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Avg °C | -18 | -16 | -11 | -4 | 0 | 3 | 5 | 5 | 1 | -4 | -10 | -16 |
| Rain mm | 13 | 17 | 21 | 20 | 18 | 13 | 7 | 12 | 2 | 8 | 23 | 15 |
📋 Practical info
Getting there
The mountain is extremely isolated deep in the Pamir Mountains. The journey requires a logistically demanding and lengthy drive over very rough dirt tracks, mostly starting from the city of Osh, followed by a highly challenging trek to the actual base camp.
Best season
The brief weather window for high-altitude expeditions is remarkably short and essentially strictly limited to the mid-summer months of July and August. Outside this time, violent blizzards and extreme freezing completely prevent any safe climbing attempts.
Terrain & paths
It is classic, highly rugged high-alpine terrain with heavily crevassed glaciers, exceptionally deep chasms, and steep ice flanks. The route to the summit leads almost exclusively over deep snow and solid ice at extreme and highly exposed altitudes.
What to bring
A complete, highly professional expedition gear setup strictly designed for extreme cold is absolutely mandatory, including thick down suits, crampons, ice axes, and tents. Every individual climber must be entirely confident in vital rope techniques.
Parking
Vehicles left behind in civilization can be securely parked in starting cities like Osh. Further up, at the base camp, there are sometimes fully unpaved parking areas strictly reserved for the rugged off-road vehicles operated by professional agencies.
Safety
An ascent is strictly and exclusively reserved for highly experienced and hardened alpinists. The imminent dangers of sudden avalanches, deeply hidden crevasses, and life-threatening altitude sickness at over 7,000 meters demand absolute, unwavering discipline.
Time needed
For a complete, full-scale expedition, including the harsh journey, the absolutely necessary acclimatization phases, and the actual summit push, climbers generally plan strictly between three and four intensely grueling weeks until they return to the city.
Geography
Facts
- The official elevation of the peak is 7,134 meters.
- It was discovered and mapped by Alexei Fedchenko in 1871.
- The first successful summit climb occurred in 1928.
- Tajikistan renamed the peak after Avicenna in 2006.
- It is often cited as the easiest 7,000m peak to climb technically.
- A catastrophic avalanche in 1990 claimed the lives of 43 climbers.
Explore nearby
Notable places around
Route planner — Car & Motorhome
Where do you start? We build the route here, with stops and country notes along the way.
Vehicle
Only stops with (optional):
© OpenStreetMap contributors · OpenRouteService
Sights in the town Peak Ibn Sina (3)
Sights nearby
Frequently asked questions
Is Pik Ibn Sina suitable for beginners?
No, the mountain is only for experienced alpinists with excellent physical fitness.
How to prepare for the cold?
High-quality expedition gear for extreme sub-zero temperatures is mandatory.
Is there local support staff?
Yes, local mountain guides and porters can be hired for logistics at base camps.
Must the route be registered in advance?
Yes, registration with local authorities is required for safety reasons.
What is the recommended footwear?
Professional expedition high-altitude boots with integrated gaiters are necessary.
Peak Ibn Sina: where is it located?
Peak Ibn Sina is located in Tajikistan.
Peak Ibn Sina: what is there to see?
Highlights include pik Dzerzhinskogo, Lenin Peak, pik Marshala Zhukova.
Peak Ibn Sina: when is the best time to visit?
The most pleasant time to visit is Jun, Aug.
Peak Ibn Sina: why is it worth visiting?
Peak Ibn Sina, widely known by its former name Lenin Peak, is a prominent mountain in Central Asia, rising to 7,134 meters.
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An isolated hiking paradise in the Pamirs accessible only on foot, featuring crystal-clear lakes.
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Bartang River
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